Pintxos de Bacalao
Crispy salt cod croquettes on bread, the Arrizabalaga family's recipe from San Sebastián — a Basque bar staple made at home.
The Story Behind This Recipe
The Arrizabalaga family has run the same bar on a side street in San Sebastián's Parte Vieja for three generations. The grandmother set it up in 1952; her son took it over in 1981; his daughter runs it now, with her own daughter behind the bar on weekends. The pintxos spread on the counter at 7 PM every evening is the same spread it's always been, with a few additions the younger generation have introduced over the years. The bacalao pintxos have never changed.
Salt cod — bacalao — arrived in the Basque Country centuries ago with the fishing fleets that traveled to Newfoundland and Iceland. The Basques have been preserving cod in salt since at least the 1400s, and they developed a relationship with the ingredient that is as deep as any in European food culture. The desalting process (soaking overnight, changing the water several times) transforms the preserved fish into something silky and mild with a flavor that is entirely its own — not fresh fish, not dried fish, but bacalao specifically.
These croquettes — crisp outside, creamy within, flecked with parsley and garlic — are the Basque Country in a bite. The Arrizabalaga daughter showed our guests the trick of the béchamel-heavy filling years ago and said, when someone asked if she was worried about giving away the family secret: "Everyone has the recipe. Not everyone makes it right." She's correct.
Spain: Basque Country & Barcelona
9 Days · Up to 10 guests · From $5,195 per person
The woman at La Boquería who saves the best tomatoes for CDV groups. The family in San Sebastián whose pintxos recipe hasn't changed in 80 years. You'll meet them all.
Ingredients
Serves 8- 400g (14 oz) salt cod (desalted overnight in several changes of cold water)
- 2 medium potatoes, peeled, boiled, and mashed (about 250g / 1 cup mashed)
- 4 cloves garlic, very finely minced
- 1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 4 tbsp)
- 1 large egg, beaten
- 50g (⅓ cup) all-purpose flour, for dusting
- 100ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, for frying
- 8 slices of baguette or crusty country bread
- Salt and white pepper to taste
- Lemon wedges, for serving
Directions
- 1
The night before: Place the salt cod in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate. Change the water at least three times over 12–18 hours. The cod is ready when it's pliable and tastes only mildly salty. Drain and pat dry.
Tip: This step cannot be rushed. Under-desalted cod will overpower everything else. Taste a small piece raw — it should be pleasant, not eye-watering.
- 2
Shred the desalted cod into fine flakes with your fingers, removing any skin and bones. You want small, even pieces — no chunks.
- 3
In a large bowl, combine the shredded cod, mashed potatoes, garlic, and parsley. Season with a little white pepper. Taste before adding salt — the cod will still carry some salinity. Mix well until everything is combined into a uniform mass.
- 4
Divide the mixture into 16 small rounds or ovals (about 2 heaping tablespoons each). Flatten each slightly into a small patty. Place on a tray and refrigerate for 15 minutes to firm up.
Tip: The cold helps them hold together in the pan. Don't skip this rest.
- 5
Dip each croquette in the beaten egg, then dredge lightly in flour, shaking off any excess.
- 6
Heat the olive oil in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers (but before it smokes), add the croquettes in a single layer without crowding. Cook for 2–3 minutes per side until deeply golden and crisp. Work in batches if needed.
- 7
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Taste one immediately, before they cool, because you deserve it.
- 8
Toast or char the bread slices briefly. Place two croquettes on each slice. Serve immediately with lemon wedges. In the Arrizabalaga bar, these disappear within minutes of hitting the counter — aim for the same effect at home.
Spain: Basque Country & Barcelona
9 Days · 10 guests max · From $5,195
The woman at La Boquería who saves the best tomatoes for CDV groups. The family in San Sebastián whose pintxos recipe hasn't changed in 80 years.
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